Remember all of the discussion of Arsenalna last week? Well, next to the contemporary art flagship is a place of huge importance. The Kiev Monastery of the Caves or Kiev Pechersk Larva is a must see on any person’s Ukrainian visit. Yes, you did read the word “cave” and “monastery” in the same title. Many Eastern Orthodox Christians make a pilgrimage to this place that is home to more than 100 religious relics. Even if you are not particularly religious, it is quite a site to see. The Monastery is like a small, walled city within Kiev complete with a garden and living quarters for the monks.
According to Best of Ukraine, two Monks named Anthony and Theodosius first began this community more than 900 years ago, founding it in 1051. As the numbers of monks grew over time, an architect from Constantinople (modern Istanbul) was selected to build the monastery. The Kiev Pechersk Larva was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site honoring its contribution to history. The picture to the left shows a woman touching a religious relic. Other relics have the tradition of a woman kissing the relic after saying a quick blessing. Pictured, is also a (modern?) monk walking; the variation in age of monks can be quite surprising to someone who is used to an aging Catholic Priest population.
Now lets talk about the fact that THERE ARE CAVES HERE! It is one of the most interesting walks I have taken in Kiev. The first time I went, in October of 2011, they had not installed electricity in the caves so each person was expected to bring a candle into the dark with them. Before entering the caves, women must cover their hair and make sure they are wearing a skirt (you can borrow one). Once inside, you can see the caskets and bodies of Eastern Orthodox religious figures. Sometimes you can look into the spaces that these monks used to pray and live in. The caves are winding, with no clear path. The second time I visited, in August 2012, we slid into the Caves just as they were closing for the day; as we were walking through the caves the sound of monks singing rang through the air. It sounded loud and far away at the same time. If I closed my eyes, it could have been any point in history.
At one point, the bell tower pictured to the right was the tallest in the world. When I look at it, I see resemblance to a decadent layered cake. From the photo, it’s difficult to convey how tall this tower really, except to say that it can be seen from very far away.
Aside from caves, there is a breath taking garden that slopes down the hill toward the Dnipro River. It’s full of thousands of roses. In addition, the monks have a gorgeous orchard and garden of edibles that is tended to by women.