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Life’s a Beach (Black Sea Edition)

Waking Up.

Time and time again, people tell me that they think of blistering cold when they think of Ukraine. Let me assure you that the summers can be equally warm. With incredible heat and no promises of an air conditioner, I wasn’t the only one fleeing my apartment for the beach. We took a trip to Odessa, which is a city of around one million and situated on the Black Sea.

First, let me explain that I actually woke up on the beach the morning we arrived, not in a hotel room on the beach, but literally on the sand with seagulls around me. But I will explain how I ended up sleeping on the beach next week. What’s important is that my day started with a sunrise (and maybe some background noise of Euro-electronica music bleeding into the morning). Sleeping on a beach is not something I make a habit out of, but I would do it again in a heartbeat; it made me feel kind of youthful, resilient and in touch with my surroundings.

The beach in Odessa is much more crowded than I had expected, but also cleaner than I had imagined. If it was sand that we laid our towels on, it was the most cement like sand I have encountered, frosted over with smaller pebbles and some dirt trying very hard to be sand.

The dress code for the beach is a bit more liberal than in the States. Women can comfortably go topless. Other beaches have (gasp!) a nudist beach nestled next to the “family” beach. Alcohol is not only permitted, it is sold on the beach.

The people watching was great, but I found the most amusement by watching the police chase boys selling dried fish to beach goers. The boys were so persistent, and the police would shout about how they had only bribed them to sell their goods in a small portion of the territory they were claiming.

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One thought on “Life’s a Beach (Black Sea Edition)”

  1. This is amazing Elise. There is so much varied experience in this. Waking up to a sunrise on the beach to laughing at corrupt cops in the beach side fish market. Sometimes those key differences can make a huge difference. Alcohol on the beaches of Ukraine. Discotheques and bars that stay open 7 am in Peru. But people and cop watching is always fun. The Policia in Peru wear these long boots like riding boots and their whistles make the strangest sounds, which continue all through the night.

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