Tag Archives: the Black Sea

A City by the Sea: Odessa

This park lights up at night.

My trip to Odessa was a rambling adventure. We took a night bus which was nearly impossible to sleep on due to the heat and crowds. Arriving in Odessa around 4am, we took a cab to the shoreline and spread out our towels on the beach and tried to grab an hour or so of sleep.

In the daylight hours, we found a place to eat some breakfast. At the next table was a Frenchman who worked at the world famous Ritz Carlton in Paris. Since the hotel was closed for renovations (I can thank Vogue for knowing this) he was in Odessa to learn Russian for a few months to increase his tips among Russian customers. After breakfast, we walked around looking at some of the statues, the one pictured at left shows that the gold parts of the engraving are rubbed clean. The superstition is that if you touch it, you will have money in your life. The image that comes to mind for me is the similarity to the Alice in Wonderland statue in New York City’s Central Park, with her finger rubbed clean.

Odessa is a gorgeous city on the Black Sea. With that, comes the “let your hair down and kick your feet up” attitude of a seaside town. Odessa locals are known for being happy and having an unusual sense of humor. In the photo below, two teenagers were practicing swing dancing as we walked by. Sometimes, being surrounded by joyous people can be contagious. The city has about one million residents, but there is no subway! The public transit options are these tiny, crowded buses. To get down to the beach, we took this contraption that looks kind of like a ski lift, it provided a great view of the city and the shoreline. The city itself is absolutely beautiful. It has a festive nature with an array of restaurants tucked into courtyards. Mostly, I feel that Odessa has something for both beach goers and city folks. Most of the restaurants had ample outdoors seating. Being able to walk through the streets and preview live versions of the food choices made picking only one place to eat difficult. Though part of me wonders if Odessa was so great to me because the busier streets looked more American,  I hope it’s not the familiarity that is so appealing.

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Life’s a Beach (Black Sea Edition)

Waking Up.

Time and time again, people tell me that they think of blistering cold when they think of Ukraine. Let me assure you that the summers can be equally warm. With incredible heat and no promises of an air conditioner, I wasn’t the only one fleeing my apartment for the beach. We took a trip to Odessa, which is a city of around one million and situated on the Black Sea.

First, let me explain that I actually woke up on the beach the morning we arrived, not in a hotel room on the beach, but literally on the sand with seagulls around me. But I will explain how I ended up sleeping on the beach next week. What’s important is that my day started with a sunrise (and maybe some background noise of Euro-electronica music bleeding into the morning). Sleeping on a beach is not something I make a habit out of, but I would do it again in a heartbeat; it made me feel kind of youthful, resilient and in touch with my surroundings.

The beach in Odessa is much more crowded than I had expected, but also cleaner than I had imagined. If it was sand that we laid our towels on, it was the most cement like sand I have encountered, frosted over with smaller pebbles and some dirt trying very hard to be sand.

The dress code for the beach is a bit more liberal than in the States. Women can comfortably go topless. Other beaches have (gasp!) a nudist beach nestled next to the “family” beach. Alcohol is not only permitted, it is sold on the beach.

The people watching was great, but I found the most amusement by watching the police chase boys selling dried fish to beach goers. The boys were so persistent, and the police would shout about how they had only bribed them to sell their goods in a small portion of the territory they were claiming.